Malaysian in the Neighborhood

There is a difference between a restaurant chain and a restaurant family. The first is a group of pedestrian, mediocre family dining establishments connected by identical menus and decor with very standard and unoriginal fare. The second is a set of eateries, owned by a single individual or group, that vary in price range, menu selection, and ambiance yet retains some linking qualities nonetheless. The Penang restaurants are neither a family nor a chain, but some compromise between the two concepts that has worked out quite well--both for the restaurant's owners and its customers.

With two locations in Boston, one in Washington D.C., one on Long Island, and the original Penang in Queens to accompany the three found on Manhattan Island, the Chinese-Malaysian style cooking at these very chic and well-decorated restaurants is obviously successful. The names on the menu may be daunting at first, but the knowledgeable staff can describe every dish when questioned.

We began with the Wonton Soup ($3.50), which was the usual offering of wontons in a salty broth. The Satay ($6.50) is also standard fare, doing nothing to distinguish itself from most Southeast Asian restaurants' versions of the skewered chicken. The Roti Canai ($4.25), an incredibly fun-to-eat and delicious combination of chicken curry with thin, soft bread was the highlight of the first course. Also distinguishing itself was the Sotong Goreng ($7.95), a calamari that is as far from the Italian style as Malaysia is from the Mediterranean. Nicely spiced, the fried squid is served on a bed of grilled vegetables. My guest (who is of Italian descent) was enamored of the somewhat unexpected spiciness of the dish.

For the entree, I ordered Beef Rendang ($12.95), a curried beef dish served with white rice. The beef was perfectly cooked and fell apart in my mouth, and the sauce was wonderful with the side of rice. You may want to substitute a type of flavored rice for the standard white (I recommend coconut).

The pinnacle of the evening was the presentation of the other main course, the Penang Roast Duck ($20.95). Served with a wide assortment of scallions, cucumber, lemongrass, ginger, cinnamon, and two different sauces, the lightly fried shredded duck comes to the table in an edible bowl. To eat it, one makes small fajita-like morsels, combining the duck, veggies, and sauces in one of the accompanying wraps. The portion was so large that the two of us could not finish it.

To conclude our meal, we ordered a Peanut Pancake ($6.50) and a Fried Ice Cream ($7.50). The pancake was sweet, cake-like, and absolutely delicious. The fried ice cream comes with two fried bananas, and the warm fried outside dough is a delightful contrast with the cold inner ice cream. Both desserts were fantastic.

The three Manhattan Penangs are always busy and are extraordinarily well regarded--for good reason. The gigantic menu (with over 30 main courses) offers something for everyone, and the food is quite excellent. There is a lounge underneath the Upper West Side location, featuring live music, and the kitchen stays open until midnight on the weekends.

Penang is a fantastic date restaurant, offering not only a wide range of foods but also a wide range of prices. It would be entirely possible for two people to have an entire three-course meal for less than 40 dollars, just as it is also possible for two people to spend well over $100. The variety of its patrons speaks volumes for Penang's ability to accommodate most any hungry diner. Sitting two tables from us was a middle-aged businessman and his wife, while in the far corner, five teenage girls sat demolishing plate after plate of butterflied shrimp. Penang is a fantastic restaurant, well worth the trip down from Morningside Heights.

The nearest Penang is located on the corner of 71st Street and Columbus Avenue. For reservations, call (212) 769-8889.